Jelsa, Duboković Winery and the Ivo Blues: Sunday, September 15th!

The man who is always waving the flag usually waives what it stands for. -Laurence J. Peter, educator and author (16 Sep 1919-1990) 

Up at 6:32 am, Sunday morning, to begin my shouldares and had completed them by a few minutes after 8:00 am. Joined the others on the deck after I had brewed my Café Turk although Flamin' and Sarge left shortly thereafter to walk into town to buy a java for Ms Fussy, who doesn't like my brew one iota! Lady Dar whipped up some delish scrambled cackleberries while they were gone and served them up with sliced avocado when they returned. I also heated up some of the overlefts from dinner, night before, basically broth from Flamin's divine roasted chicken and vegetables which tasted very much like Avgolemon, because she had used both lemons and oranges in her tasty concoction.

After the scrumptious breakfast Clan Sutherland wandered back into town while I digitated and Lady Dar read. Had a quick shower before they returned as we were scheduled to leave at 11:00 am, heading as far as Jelsa, about half an hour away, to wine-taste. Quite Sunday morning, [although church bells ring, every morning, at 6:30 am], so very few people or cars about as we made our way out of Hvar, driving along a wonderful road which hugs the hillside, high above the sea, providing wonderful vistas of the surrounding islands and the numerous coves below, often peopled with tiny specks of humanity.

Many olive trees near roadside, usually planted on small terraces, cleared of rocks and stones which form endless walls cross-crossing the landscape of small trees and other hardy-looking shrubs. At one point, not too recently it seemed, there must have been a wildfire through this part of island as the there were large swatches of blackened stick-stumps and singed bushes "painted" across the hillsides on both sides of the road.

About fifteen minutes out of Havar one passes through a tunnel, [This one is 1.5 km, (distance is posted on sign at entrance),  but longest, to date, driving south from Rovinj, has been almost 6 km. Have never been through so many tunnels of this kind in my life and can only wonder at the expense of construction, especially since the population of Croatia is but a little over 4 million!], to make towards Stari Grad, where ferry docks. Since we were going to pass this port town we decided we'd do a bit of exploring as we had plenty of time before our 3:00 pm appointment at the winery.
 

Stari Grad is much smaller than Hvar but still a lovely spot, sporting a small harbour, off an inlet, and encircling promenade. After we parked, [Aided by an Australian tourist, (handsome, tattooed lad, from Sydney), on a rented motorbike, who helped Sarge "unscramble" the instructions on the parking kiosk.], we wandered through the small out-door market, [picking up a loaf of bread, some tomatoes and a bunch of green grapes for our coming picnic], and then meandered along the promenade, past café's filled with families having breakfast/brunch. 

As we only had an hour on our ticket we turned around after 30 minutes to work our way back to the car. I left the others to take a number of the narrow side streets off the promenade and enjoyed the coolness, [already 30º C], of the confined space, peeking into courtyards and gardens, some filled with ripe tomatoes and light yellow peppers. 
 

Again, many shops and restaurants tucked away but still too early for many people so it was a most pleasant stroll. Left the twisting, turning maze with about ten minutes to spare and headed for the car, on the opposite side of the harbour. No sign of the Gand of Three so I walked into the local Konzum to see if they were inside. I knew they planned to buy a few supplies for the house, so that we wouldn't have to carry them back from the store in Hvar and sure enough they were at the cash register, Autocratic Treasurer Darjeeling, kitty purse, [We each put a given sum into it for general expenses such as gas, groceries, etc., and pay for meals ourselves.], clutched in hand, to keep the moths in, doling out the Kunas! 

Back in the car for but fifteen minutes or so to find a beach in Vrboska, another tiny town about 2 km from Jelsa, our final destination. I wanted to go to the nudist beach we passed en route to the one Flamin' had found on her iPhonebut was over-ruled by the prudes, Dear Reader! Paid 20 kn to park for the day and then walked a short distance to the pleasant enough beach, located in a small protected cove. Even had a small inflatable, floating "fun" park so almost like being back in Penticton, off Lakeshore. 

We found a small bench, nicely shaded, and set up on it to have our picnic. Flamin' and Lady Dar carried a large wooden deck lounge closer to where the bench was located and we used it to spread out our lunch fixings. Made delicious sandwiches, [cheese, ham, Prosciutto and sliced tomatoe with the wonderful bread. Side orders of crisps, [potatoe chips for all you non-Brits!], and sweet grapes, along with a shared beer for some of my thirsty companions. After our tasty meal Flamin' and Sarge set up in the sun, on more purloined loungers, while I helped Lady Dar move the "picnic table" so that she could lie on it to read, her head in the shade and her legs and tootsies soaking up Vitamin D! I stayed on the bench to read, not wanting to take too, too much sun and with the lovely breeze it was very, very comfortable in spite of the temperature. 

A few cooling swims and about an hour later, with time for the Aquanauts to dry in the sun, we packed up our belongings and returned to the car. Very short drive and we were on the outskirts of Jelsa and drove right past the winery. Was only 2:30 pm so Sarge continued on into town to see what we could see. Ended up circling around as it looked like we had to pay for parking to actually gain entrance to main part of village, near the sea from what we could see through the trees and we really didn't want to do this, given we would not be staying there for any length of time. When we reached a given point, Sarge turned into a private driveway, to turn around, and the car behind us honked:

Of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world, she walks into mine. Play it, Sam. Play As Time Goes By. Of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world, she walks into mine. Against all odds, Sarge had chosen their driveway like Ilsa Lund, [Ingrid Bergman], who happens into "Rick's Café Américain", Rick Blaine's/Bogie's upscale nightclub and gambling den in the Vichy-controlled city of Casablanca.

Chuckling to our selves, we made our way back to park in front of Duboković Winery and a few minutes later Ivo, the owner/winemaker ushered us into the "cave", actually the cool basement of his home, where he has a number of tasting areas among his stacked wine barrels and stainless steel fermenting tanks. 

We were seated at one of the larger spots, [Two young women, from New York, were seated at the smaller of the two.], two to a bench, on either side of a large table, candles providing the light and creating a lovely atmosphere. Ivo informed us that the building belonged to his grandfather who was an amateur winemaker for many years and Ivo took his own, more recent wine-making hobby, to its present commercial success.

Ivo moved between the two spots, spending a few minutes, pouring wine and explaining what varietals went into each and answering any questions we posed. We first tasted four whites, [All of the names and most of the descriptions are taken from the pamphlet provided.], although none were truly "white", all locally grown and all dry. First an Aperitive Rosé, (Plavac Mali and Drnekuša), and then Amber, (Orange) wines: Moj Otok, (Maraština, Parč, Kuč, Bogdanjuša); Moja B, (Bogdanjuša),and Moja M, (Maraština). Last is an original Dalmatian varietal and I preferred it over all the others. Not overly fruit flavourful but with a very satisfying flinty, somewhat bitter, but pleasantly so, finish. We all would have preferred them to be somewhat more chilled.

Ivo would pour more of anything if we wanted so I had another couple of swigs of the Moja M before we began the flight of five reds: Laganini, (Drnekuša), very light, [Too, too light, at around 12%, for me!], and much appreciated by Italian visitors, according to Ivo. 2718, [number of hours of bottled sunshine], Sati Sunca U Boci, (Plavic Mali, main red varietal, 2015, 14%), and Prije 6009 Godina, (again, Plavic Mali, 2015, 14.7%), so named for a neolithic cave painting done 6,009 years ago, both "entry level" reds. Wonderful cherry on the nose and with the finish so first red I really fancied. According to Ivo, related to Primativo/Zinfandel for any interested in that heated debate! I agreed, inasmuch as the wine was very fruit forward with not much tannic finnish. Last two, Medvjedica, and Medvid, (both Plavic Mali, latter 2013, 15%), were his top-end reds, the first not aged as long in both French and American oak. I was immediately taken with the Medvid, unfortunately so as it weighted in at 350 kn/$70 CDN. Interestingly enough, to my palette, it tasted more like a mouthful of cherries, more reminiscent of a fruit-forward, young Pinot Noir, than a jammy Zin, but with a thrilling, bitter tannic finish.

Bought a bottle, after a number of "reminder" slugs, for our farewell dinner in Dubrovnik. All the while we had a large platter of cheese and one of bread to cleanse our palettes, as well as four different olive oils, from Ivo's trees, for sopping, original and macerated: basil, sage, and oregano. Both Lady Dar and I liked the sage so we picked up a couple of the small, 375 ml, handled bottles.

Then came the dessert wines: Don Petar, (sweet, Plavac Mali), and Prvi Poljubac, (sweet, Maraština, Parč, Kuč, Bogdanjuša), the first slightly drier, the latter more like a late harvest wine. According to Ivo they first crush the grapes and then boil them, fermenting the liquid afterwards. He brought us a glass of the cooled liquid that had been boiled earlier that day and we compared it to the finished products. An interesting concoction indeed.


Not listed in the brochure, [Technically, he is not licensed to sell.], Ivo then brought out three of his Grappas, two flavoured, chilli and cherry. I liked them all but The Sisterhood found the chilli too, too overpowering. For my part, I loved it. They much preferred the cherry expression as it reminded them of Elephant Island's Framboise. I'd have taken a bottle of each but since we are nearing the end of our stay in Croatia, need to be mindful of how much hootch we have on hand before Lady Dar and I fly to Prague as we will not have any checked luggage. Bought a bottle of the Cherry Grappa, a steal at 100 kn/$20 CDN as we will have it for dessert or a night cap over the last few evenings of our wonderful time here in Croatia. 

Thanking Ivo for his wonderful hospitality and exciting product, we waved goodbye and Sarge chauffeured us back to Hvar. Once home the Gang of Three started to pound again but I wanted to finish my shouldares so they tippled on the outdoor deck and I stretched inside. 
 

A few days ago, Flamin' and Sarge had found a sports bar on the harbour so wanted to see if the Seahawks game would be televised. They left around 6:00 pm while we stayed, Lady Dar reading while I finished my exercises. Shortly before I was done, she made a small salad, [We were still relatively full from picnic and nibbles at winery.], and we ate while listening to some truly interesting interviews on CBC's Radio One, The Sunday Edition, hosted by Michael Enright. Flamin' and Sarge returned, grumpy as all get out, around 9:00 pm, loudly complaining about the service, or lack thereof, at the sports bar and another spot they popped into, not managing to see the game and having to fight to use a credit card. Anyway, they were mollified, listening to streamed coverage and delighted that their beloved Seahawks defeated the Steelers 28-26! 

  

After a quick shower I dialed up Chloë and she finally answered, at her place. Connection was terrible so we agreed I'd call later when she would be at our place for the night, to look after Etta and Duke. When I did call she was in the Rumpus Room, Duke curled up on her lap. Caught a glimpse of Etta as she headed out through the cat door into the garage. It was raining so I guess Duke needed a cosy cuddle. 

Pleased to hear that all continues to go well with Chloë, as far as her pregnancy is concerned, and with her new place. She will be driving into Vancouver next Friday and will probably stay at Harbour Terrace until Monday so she'll see Flamin' and Sarge as they return, from Rome, on Sunday. After chatting for a bit more we sent our love and closed the link. Said goodnight to the football fans and headed to bed to read. Am really enjoying Lisa Jewell's extremely well written, onion-skin of a mystery, I Found You, especially after the foul taste which James Patterson's NYPD Red left in my interpretive cortex! What a day! Will be rather hard to return to reality, not to mention Mean Streets Dear Reader!

Agenda for Sunday's Meeting: Here it is ladies and gentlemen! Judi R. Hello Dame Judith! Trust you and Lonesome Kevin are well! If it is fine with you, Lady Dar and I will renew our membership when we return. I gather you have abandoned Duke and Etta for the weekend, being too, too busy with your whirlwind of a social life!

[Acrylic pour] Hope all is well with you and your family and you are back to your daily rides!

Not reading Face Book posts is less stressful but I miss seeing what friends are doing. I do have an account, which I don’t follow, but have set up for those who dislike email and only correspond through Messenger. You will find me at Bre McM. 

[My brother’s wedding last month]

Despite the aging process, we are all pretty much the same here. Our daughter Dana is thinking she would like to get away from this arid climate and move to Salmon Arm or thereabouts and is working on us, her support system, following her there. We will wait to see what she does but in the meantime I have been gradually purging and reorganizing so if we do move we won’t have to pack my excesses. Lol

I have disciplined myself to following a new rule. For every new item coming in to the house, two items have to leave! No more saving something, “just in case”. Sitting on the counter is the new Atwood book which is begging me to open. I won’t start until I can see a two hour uninterrupted session ahead in my day. As for TV we are following Kirsten Dunst’s new Showtime series about becoming a god in Florida. Can’t remember the exact title. Two more we are presently watching on Netscape that are not too bad: Locked Up Vis A Vis ; Lilyhammer . Your reading recommendations last time were right on especially The Heart’s Invisible Furies. I don’t know of any other book that has ever changed my way of thinking as that one. I have enjoyed the friendship of several gay friends but after reading that book I think I understand and feel so much more.

 

[Papa and Kian] Our grandson, Kian, started Kindergarten this year. In an inner city school that appears to be in permanent lock down. His teacher looks harried and that was just after the first day. That is another reason I am not adverse to moving.
 

Dana has a job as a book keeper for Blackstone Dairy and although she is able to take him to school, we pick him up and are lucky to have him for early dinner each work day. He loved going to Daycare preschool at the Child Development Centre but we notice a real unhappiness now which is really strange for a very curious, outgoing and social child. As for my I am still into some Artsy projects, especially acrylic pours. How is the Corinne’s wedding planning going? Hope to see you at some point

Hi Brenda Louise! How lovely to hear from you and know that all goes well with you, Wally, Dana and Kian, although a move might well be in the offing! How time flies! Yes, indeed!!! As you might have gathered, we are in Croatia at the moment, in Hvar, one of the lovely port towns on the island of Hvar.

Must away to have a quick shower and get ready for our day trip. We will do a bit of exploring around the island en route to the winery. Fondestos from Lady Darjeeling to you and Wally. Stay well. Cheers, Patrizzio! Pics: Stairs leading to beach near our appartamento; Fortress and dinner at Bonaca on Friday evening; pomegranates on way up to Fortress; view from below; view from top, overlooking harbour and town; beach just five minutes from us.

Hello Ragin'! I just heard from Peter Cook about your rehab program. Pleased that you had the courage and foresight to do what you did, given your falls, etc. Both Lady Dar and I support your choice and do believe that this will be a start towards full recovery, both mental and physical. Of course, we are both thinking of you and wishing you well during this difficult period. Fondestos from Lady Darjeeling to you, Branko. When you have the opportunity please let us know how you are feeling and how you are doing. Stay well. Cheers, Il Conduttore/Patrizzio!
 

Hi All This is a picture from the lounge area at our lovely Marriott Hotel. This is the best of Mumbai. The city otherwise is horrible --such garbage, traffic and one slum after another. We visited a good museum today Dr. Bhau Daji Lad museum used to be called Victoria and Albert museum . It was such a long taxi ride away and even though we travelled on an amazing bridge the rest of the drive was so horrible that I was simply relieved to get back to the hotel. We are here for way too long. 

I much prefer Delhi and wouldn't recommend Mumbai to anyone. Keep wondering when it went so bad. Plus if this is the home of Bollywood stars then they must wander around with their eyes shut. There is no wealthy area per se as the wealthy places are side by side with slums. Really is shocking. Thank heavens for the confines of this hotel. The airport in Mumbai is nicer than the city. Hope you are well. Enjoy Vancouver's sidewalks and garbageless streets. Now convinced more than ever that Oppenheimer Park and tent city has to go. We need to address housing for the poor. I am getting ready for happy hour. Really need it. Love for now Joanne 

Hello Mumbai and Dunbar! Thanks for the note from Inja, Marps! Sorry to hear you found The Black Hole of "Calcutta", [I like this name more than Mumbai!], not to your liking. Interestingly enough, both Lady Dar and I enjoyed Mumbai immensely and found Delhi difficult, inasmuch as the air quality was more than abominable when were there in late November/early December. [Bye the bye, your snap was "empty", at least as far as my system was concerned, so I couldn't open it.] I'll let MS Maharani, JT, be the judge! All the best, to you, Marps, Shower Bar Man and Begum Tomkins. Stay well. Cheers, Patrizzio!