Monday 16 September 2019

Hvar to Sućuraj and Back to the Mainland Blues: Tuesday, September 17th!

What power has love but forgiveness? -William Carlos Williams, poet (17 Sep 1883-1963)


First one up at around 6:20 am to have a quick shower. Sarge would like to be on the road by 8:30 am, preferably earlier, so need to do some last minute packing. Will need a Café Turk before that, of course!

[Hi, are these the keys to your place? Is it still ok if i stay Friday,Saturday and Sunday night ?? Let me know. Thanks ❤️They are and no problem. See you Sunday evening. Great, thanks. Have a safe flight home!!]

Left just after 8:05 am and drive to ferry, at the eastern tip of Hvar, was spectacular. Stupendous, almost dizzying views of the phenomenally beautiful coastline, countless islands, tiny, picturesque coves with red-tiled house clinging to the hillsides, and the dazzling, shimmering, sailboat dotted sea! 

Had to climb and cross quite a few mountain sides and the road, once we left Jelsa, became quite narrow. Especially unnerving on tight curves or corners where no shoulder between tarmac and deep ditches, or worse, existed. Since we left Hvar reasonably early there was little traffic so that helped. However, as we approached Sućuraj we encountered more vehicles, from first ferry, we assumed, along with quite a few cyclists. I envied them their ride but had a great deal of sympathy for them as well. The steady climb, although never overly steep, would last for over 16 km, if not more, depending on their destination.
 
Anyway, we made it to the ferry terminal without incident and felt like we back in Horseshoe Bay as we missed loading by two vehicles! Not a big deal as Sućuraj is a pleasant enough village and we only had to wait about an hour for next ferry. I wandered around the narrow side-streets and when I'd explored as much as I wanted I sat in the shade and read my book. Ferry itself is about the size of one that goes to Gabriola so it didn't take long to load. Half an hour later we were back on the mainland, in Drvenik, and made our way south, along the coast, having to show our passports when we entered Bosnia and Herzegovina as one passes through the country's only access to the sea, [I estimate about 10 km], and again when we re-entered Croatia.
 
The drive was another visual feat, more of the same Adriatic coastline, drenched in sunshine. Once in Dubrovnik itself we didn't have any difficulty finding the rental car drop-off spot and hailed a cab to take us to the Pile Gate, (The name is derived from Greek word pylaj meaning gate), built in the 15th century, with a wooden drawbridge, pulled up at night to prevent entry to the medieval, walled city. Should have been up when we arrived to prevent the hordes and hordes of tourists literally swarming the area! [Noticed the same cruise ship we saw in Trieste, a week or more ago, docked in the harbour as we dropped down into outskirts of city and I'm sure there are more than one berthing every day.] Since no vehicles are allowed within the walls we had to walk a reasonable distance to our accommodation. On the flat it was fine but the ninety-nine steps, off and up a narrow side-street near main square, were challenging enough. I was fine as I'm travelling with a large knapsack but others had to lug their wheeled suitcases up each step.

Anyway, we found our apartamenti, #24, and opened the lock box to retrieve the key. Place is very, very comfortable, though not overly spacious in combined dining/living/kitchen area on first floor. Beds are probably most comfortable to date so everyone slept soundly, especially after two bottles of wine before heading out to dinner, [At restaurant called Marco Polo, suggested by the owner of the place in which we are staying.] Lady Dar ordered duck, on a bed of grilled fennel, which was wonderful while I chose very lightly breaded calamari, my first of the trip.], one with dinner and then a nightcap of Šljivovica, Badel 1862, produced from Bistrica, its best known sort of plum!

Look at our pup!! ❤️

 His cousin in Dubrovnik sends greetings!


 
 
 
 

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