Friday 20 September 2019

Old Town and the Hop On/Hop Off Bus Blues: Saturday, September 21st!

 What you do is of little significance; but it is very important that you do it. -Mohandas K. Gandhi (1869-1948)


Up at around 6:30 am and stole out of bed as didn't want to wake Lady Dar. It had been a bit of a noisy night as revelers from right across the way were outside on the sidewalk, shouting and otherwise carrying on,from about 2:00 am to 4:00 pm when the nightclub closes. Yesterday night we'd eaten in the restaurant upstairs, [Duck for Lady Dar, garlic soup and goulash for me, all tasty but not exceptional, although I quite enjoyed polishing off Dar's cooked, red-cabbage salad, her delicate nose crinkling at first taste!], so knew things were going to heat up as the evening progressed into the wee smalls!

Anyway, I put the kettle on to boil and then went across the hallway to our toilet. Reserved for our apartment only so fine as far as that goes, however means carrying a set of keys for the medieval lock and then turning into a contortionist once one has gained access as the cubicle is smaller than Superman's phone box. One advantage is that one can quite easily rest your chin on the edge of the washbasin if you can first manage to squeeze yourself between it and the throne. The joys of travel in Lilliput, Dear Reader!

Once I'd Gumby'd myself out of the water closet of horrors, padlocked the door, raised the drawbridge and padded across the hall, the kettle was at a roiling boil so I was able to Nescafé myself a nice mug of eye-opener. Even had a sachet of sugar and one of carcinogenic creamer left by an earlier guest so who could ask for more? Took a quick look at tours available for city and think we'll start out simply following our noses, walking from our place to the Old Town and its Square and then across the Charles Bridge to Prague Castle.

Apparently, the railroad station is but five minutes from us so, at some point, we will drop by to find out about either bus or train times/costs for Český Krumlov, our next stop. A quick gander on one of the booking websites suggests taking the bus at 2:00 pm to arrive at 4:30 pm for about 207 CZK, approximately $12 CDN. Similarly, about the same cost from Český Krumlov to Salzburg. From there to Zurich is €39/$57 CDN if we leave at 4:00 am! Will have to see how Her Imperiousness feels about this closer to the date in question!

Good Morning From Prague! Trust life in Barolo-Amarone-Land continues to unfold as it should! Lonely night without you, Thursday. Once Lady Dar was up I took a quick shower, loads of hot water but half the size of 99 steps! While Dar was bathing I trotted across the street for breakfast fixings: yogurt, eggs, bacon, an apple, an onion and two limes for Screech! Once inside our building I counted the steps, [Wooden as we spit on Croatian limestone!], and only 21 to top! You need to do The Spanish Steps 50 times to pay for making us climb Everest, Flamin'! Decided to have yogurt and fruit for breakfast and will set off shortly. Fondestos from Darjeeling to you both. Cheers, Patrizzio Who Knows Prague Like the Back of His Hand since his Shunning there in 2018!


I got a call last night wanting to know what I did with the keys. The owner was upset that I had given the keys to someone who was not supposed to rent the place.


Good to hear you made it in one piece to Czech . There is a warrant out for your arrest through Interpol .. you created an international incident !!we got several calls from our host of the 99 steps apartment , that you gave keys to the aforementioned Jorge. This is apparently and absolute NO!! In Airbnb protocol. We of course had no idea what transpired but told host that we left earlier than you and you left keys in apartment !! Please expect secret police to knock on your tiny broom closet of apartment at any time. Do not call as we will not post bond !! 


We just had a very lovely evening with our friend Frederico, he is now running a clothing store and Wayne purchased a couple of lovely Linen shirts from his shop . He made reservations at his partner’s son’s restaurant last night and we had a beautiful Italian dinner, I think we did 5 courses. Great walking tour today and now settling in with an aperol spritz and beer Ciao michele 


Good morning Corinne, Thanks for your swift response. I will assume you arrive at Valence TGV station (and not Valence Ville) unless I hear to the contrary and we will be there to collect you. It certainly is not too late for us. Andre can organise a light supper for us all. Enjoy your travels over the next two weeks and look forward to seeing you both soon.

Our current guests are still dithering about where to go next - never know anybody so disorganised - even driving Andre crazy! Travel safely in the wonderful European autumnal sunshine. Much love as always, Rosemary XXX

Hi Rosemary Yes we are coming to the Valence TVG station. Taking the bus this morning to Cesky Krumlov. Had a wonderful 2 full days in Prague. Walked miles will enjoy a few hours on the bus. Hope your guests have made their plans.

Looking forward to our visit. Love Corinne
By the time I had popped out for a few more groceries and we'd both had showers and a bite to eat it was close to 10:00 am. We set off in search of the Old Town Square but ended up going a few streets north of it, passing by
the Convent of Saint Agnes and, I beleive, as part of the impressive complex, the monastery of Poor Clares of the Order of Saint Clare and Franciscans, founded in 1231 by Agnes of Bohemia, who also became the abbess of the convent. We walked around the site and enjoyed the well-tended garden. Since  situated on the right bank of Vltava, we crossed over the river on the Mánesův most/Mánes Bridge, a road and tramway bridge named after the Czech painter Josef Mánes.  

Once across we happened upon what seemed like a small pop-up market, lined with tents selling everything from crafts, to different foods, beer, souvenirs and even a wine-tasting kiosk. When we arrived a young woman with a very strong, expressive voice was doing Amy Winehouse covers, much to the obvious enjoyment of the people sitting at tables and benches in the middle of the open-air space. As we were both hungry we opted for the stuffed baked potatoes that we on offer at one of the stands. Lady had hers topped with chicken while I wanted to have dollops of sausage, shredded beets, [tangy, with horseradish], and sauerkraut. Both spuds were delicious and after young woman's act had finished we chatted with two young Italian lads, from Milano, for a bit before we headed off to continue to explore.

Although we didn't know it at the time, we were right across the street from the Valdštejnský palác/Wallenstein Palace, a Baroque palace that served as a residence for Imperial Generalissimo Albrecht von Wallenstein and now houses the Senate of the Czech Republic. No admission charge so we wandered in through the entrance way to find ourselves delighted, almost beyond belief. The Palace was built to rival Prague Castle. Four courtyards are contained within the palace layout. Its complex includes period gardens, the Avenue of Sculptures, stables and the large Riding School. The Italian style garden, (which we came across when we entered, features a remarkable fountain by Adrian de Vries (c.1545-1626), his reinterpretation of the Laocoön theme, a bronze replica gracing the centre of a large reflecting pool in which swim huge black, gold and cream carp. And then we came across two peacocks! First was what we have seen before but had never seen a white one before so quite an unexpected treat.

Beyond the Avenue of Sculptures one gains access, up a gorgeous set of stairs, to the Senate of the Czech Republic. Beyond that one enters The Audience Chamber, a small circular room adjoining the Antechamber and the Mythological Corridor. Stuccowork and paintings depict Ovid's Four ages and portraits of the Four Periods of the Day. The Baroque stuccowork of the dome in the Audience Chamber is mirrored in the Mythological corridor. The mythological corridor also has murals depicting planet motifs and legends such as Mercury & Argus, Diana and Acteon, Perseus killing Medusa, Callisto metamorphosed into a bear, and the Rape of Europa. Ovid's Metamorphoses inspired Baccio del Bianco's frescoes in this corridor.

On the way out we popped our heads into the palace chapel, most impressive indeed as it is two stories high and richly decorated with scenes from the legend of St Wenceslas. Exiting this magnificent palace we continued following our noses, our goal the castle itself. However, about 15 minutes later we stumbled upon the Church of Saint Nicholas and concerts are held there every evening from 6:00 pm - 7:00 pm so we thought we might try to see Ave Maria the next day, given timing, etc. Back outside, eagle-eyed Darjeeling spotted a Hop on/Hop Off bus stop so we inquired about tickets and decided it would be worth while to purchase 2 day passes. Did just that and then remained at the stop to catch the next bus. We stayed on this vehicle, enjoying the commentary, until we were told that the bus driver was due a lunch break so we had to transfer to another bus which would take us past the Castle. That was fine with us and when we boarded we continued to enjoy seeing different parts of the city before we actually reached the Castle itself. 

By this time it was close to 4:00 pm and we had already decided we would not have enough time or energy, at this point, to do justice to the huge complex, so we stayed on the bus until the transfer point which would take us to a stop on the Main Square, fairly close to our apartment, and an easy walk. Back home we had a bit of a lay-down to rest our tired feet and just relax with a few drinks before dinner. After showering and changing we headed out to follow our noses on the side streets around our place and settled upon Food Lab, quite a pleasant place, owned by a Serbian and with a Serbian chef, we learned from our waiter. Food was exceptional. Lady Dar ordered prunes stuffed with goat cheese and rolled in bacon while I wanted to try the gourmet minced beef rolls on roasted potatoes. We tired to share the dishes but I lost! Toddled home to have nightcaps and then it was time to put out the lights as it had been a wonderful, wonderfully full day.

Sally officially retired on June 28 after looking after other people's children so well & for so long. Several of Sally’s friends have planned a surprise retirement party for her, scheduled for the evening of Sept 28. I expect our sons Tiernan & Travis will attend the party & possibly our daughter Kaitlyn. So far, Sally knows nothing about this hush, hush secret party & I’m trying to keep it that way. Anyway, Sally & I both find it amazing that your daughter Chloe is about to give birth. Best regards & safe travels Pat & Corrine, Filmer. Hi Wildwood Park People! Trust all goes well with you both. Yes, it is quite something that Chloë is pregnant. Will be quite a change in everyone's lives! Fondest from Lady Dar to you and Sally. Stay well. Cheers, Patrizzio!
 


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