Saturday 26 May 2018

Kraków and the Wisla River Bank Blues: Sunday, May 27th!

In questions of science, the authority of a thousand is not worth the humble reasoning of a single individual. -Galileo Galilei, physicist and astronomer (1564-1642)

Buongiorno Sunshine Goils, et al! Pleased to learn you are now ensconced at the Ginger Hostel and now know Kraków like the back of your hands! Up at 7:30 am to find Glasgow still sleeping soundly so I stole into the bathroom to change, (Light switch is on the wall outside the door so bedroom is flooded with light when one turns switch on. A ridiculous design flaw! Otherwise room is comfortable enough although no bar fridge or hooks of any kind! Four hangers so a fight has already broken out!), and then grabbed my computer to head downstairs for breakfast. A very nice spread so I started with scrambled eggs and a dark rice dish of some sort. Cappuccino was from a button-machina but not bad. After my cackle-berries I returned to another serving island to slice my own bread and then picked out a selection of sliced meats, cukes and tomatoes. Back to my own table to make my "Dagwoods", listening to the Americans beside me. Pleasant enough people, I imagine, but certainly not the wonderful company of The Sunshine Goils or The Summerlanders! Not sure how long Glasgow will sleep. He flew from Vancouver yesterday so not sure about jet-lag. I plan to go for a ride on bike trail along the river and then wander in the Old Town, at some point.

I assume you are already on the road to Auschwitz. I looked on-line last night but only tour I could book wasn't in English so I'm going to try to arrange something once we are back. You may be able to advise me, given your own experience. Anyway, time for another java. Look forward to hearing about your adventures when we see you on Monday. Perhaps we'll bump into you later this evening, somewhere in town although I gather trip to Auschwitz is 7-8 hours, round-trip, so you might feel a bit drained, (emotionally and physically, by the time you are back. Anyway, I trust outing goes well and will see you on Monday morning for the orientation briefing will Colonel Katarina! Jawol Mein General!!! Cheers, Patrizzio! Pics: Arrivederci Brno Babes! Train: Farewell Czech Republic, Hello Poland! View from top of hotel this morning!

After Matt had breakfast we made our way, along river bank towards the Main Market Square, enjoying Wawel Hill/Castle with its magnificent Cathedral, as well as all the lovely cobblestone streets along the way, the colourful horse-drawn carriages and the numerous churches we encountered. Once at the Square we stopped to listen to a guitarist busker and then headed towards where Matt believed there were some Japanese Gardens. Came across a huge flea market before we reached out destination, which turned out to be The New Jewish Cemetery! Took a quick troll though part of it and it was wonderfully cool and quiet amid the huge trees and silent grave stones.

Next destination Matt wanted to take a look at was The Manggha Museum of Japanese Art and Technology, across the river from our hotel, so we asked directions a couple of times, (everyone we approached was extremely friendly and helpful), to put us on a bridge which took us, almost immediately, to the door of the Manggha. Quite modern in design it is a very attractive space and
we took in a number of the current exhibitions:

BUDDHA 2.0 Manga. Comics. Illustration, a response to the tragic events of March 2011, when Japan was afflicted by a major earthquake and tsunami. The project brought together Japanese comic artists specializing in various genres: novels for young people, thrillers, love stories, tales of yakuza, sports, or big robots. Contemporary artists of all ages took part, including winners of such prestigious awards as Shōgakukan Manga and Kōdansha Manga. Many tackled the subject for the first time, and the outcome of their effort is a crazy eclectic collection of illustrations depicting figures of the Buddhist pantheon (and more).


KNOWING. FORGETTING. AWAKENING. Japanese Buddhist art from Polish collections: It would be difficult to find an area of Japanese culture which has not been greatly influenced by Buddhism. The way of thinking, the language, the literature, the material and applied arts – in all of these areas Buddhism proactively shaped the means of expression and the artists’ capabilities, ultimately becoming the system of cultural references more or less knowingly absorbed by all the participants of that civilization. And though from the perspective of the history of Japanese culture Buddhism has never attained the kind of dominant position that Christianity has had in European culture, it does provide a key of meanings that opens the way into the domain illuminated by the Rising Sun. This iconographic exhibition showcases a different culture’s cult-objects and works of art, representing a different visual language. A difficult language. To get closer to it, Roland Barthes suggests an experiment consisting in disintegrating our own reality in order to discover a new language, a different syntax.

Richness of Mind: Treasures of Himalayan Art: This exhibition offers a rare opportunity to experience the original art of Tibet and Nepal. The exhibited artworks are rooted in the centuries-old tradition of Tibetan Buddhism, which not only continues to be practiced in the East today, but has also begun to flourish in the West. These works are highly valued because they are intricately crafted – often it takes the artist more than five years to produce only one work – and also adhere to all the iconographic and iconometric requirements.

Although the exhibits can be admired for their artistic merit and enjoyed on the level of external aesthetics – and the exhibition’s subtitle refers to this aspect – the real value of these works lies in their deep symbolic importance for the practitioners of Diamond Way (Vajrayana) Buddhism.


This last exhibition, (All the exhibits are "contemporary" works.), was housed in an adjacent building, the Europe-Far East Gallery and as there was a tour, given in English, starting at 1:30 pm, half an hour after we arrived, I timed it so as to be there when tour began. Turned out I was the only person on the tour, (Glasgow and I went at different paces so we agreed to split up and meet back at the hotel, at some point.), so I had Katarina, all to myself! She was absolutely wonderful and profoundly knowledgeable so I now have a degree in Tantric Buddhism! Seriously, it was simply marvellous to have her walk me through a goodly number of the fabulous exhibits. I learned, when I asked a question about a particular figure I'd never seen before, that it belonged to her. She had purchased it a number of years ago, in Kathmandu, (€1,000 +/-, she thought.), and was part of the curatorial team which put the exhibit together. [No pictures or provenance provided as many of the donors wish to remain anonymous for security reasons!] 

After an hour and a half I was ready to leave although she would have continued, so much had she to impart and so very enthusiastically and passionately. Although Polish she is married to a Swiss and has lived near Zurich for more than twenty years. Her husband was offered a job at Simon Fraser, sometime ago, I gather, but Katarina said that they decided not to move to Vancouver due to their school-aged children. Still, she felt Vancouver was a remarkable city. Thanking her for the very special tour I made my way to the river bank and walked back to the hotel, not all that far way. Scoped out the bike paths and access to them from street level and will go for a ride shortly. Glasgow returned about half an hour ago but is feeling a bit of jet-lag now. We plan to attend a concert at The Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, at 8:00 pm so he might snooze while I cycle.

When I left the hotel, close to 5:15 pm, my odometer seemed to have a bit of trouble finding a satellite so I made three or four loops of the block just behind the Ibis until a fix was acquired. Earlier, I had formed a pretty good idea of where I was going to ride as we had followed, at least for a short time, bike paths on both sides of the river. This being the case I simply crossed the bridge in front of our hotel and was soon speeding along the south bank of the Wisla, heading west. Wind was fairly stiff out of the ENE at 19 kph, mostly at my back on the outward bound leg but I knew I'd be fighting it on return. Easy access to the bridge from our hotel and shortly after turning right off it one is almost immediately on a wonderfully smooth tarmac, surface, wide enough to accommodate both pedestrians and cyclists. Was pleased that this was so as it was a gorgeous Sunday and there were people everywhere, enjoying the weekend, outside, having picnics on the wide, wide grass banks of the river or walking dogs, pushing strollers, or biking with their children. Always needed to be alert to such groupings as like kids, everywhere, most we not really aware of other riders. Since I wasn't really interested in clocking a particular AVG, I was happy to be a tourist and enjoy the sights and sounds of this beautiful city, especially as seen from the river.

After about 7-8 km one needs to ride, for a short stretch, on the road which runs parallel to the bike trail, at this point. Not for long, however, and then one is back on a very quiet road which in turn turns into another tarmac surface running along the top of a dyke, itself parallel to the Wisla. Still, a terrific surface and one can whiz along enjoying the hills, north, across the river, [The three magnificent copper green domes of the Camaldolese Priory, in the tiny village of Bielany, Krakówto, shining jewels indeed!], and, to the south, the many allotment gardens and fruit trees at the bottom of the yards of the houses here. Around 10 km from the bridge one reaches an impressive kayak course/training facility:

The Kraków-Kolna Canoe Slalom Course is an artificial whitewater course  on the south bank of the Vistula River, in the suburb of Kolna,  It is fed with river water diverted around a nearby dam. The top 120 metres of the course is a flat-water start pool that is covered in winter by a long white tent. Air inside the tent is heated, but the water is cold. This Olympic-standard slalom course is the site of frequent international competitions.The concrete channel has a flat bottom and vertical sides. The flow diverters are two pairs of concrete wing dams and clusters of vertical blue and green plastic bollards attached to peg boards on the channel bottom.

When I arrived there were quite  few kayakers trying to paddle upstream but without much success. One unfortunate was turned upside down and went through a couple of clusters of bollards, upside down, but was able to right himself shortly thereafter. I noticed a number of guards, with ropes around their waists, standing on the edge of the channel,poised to jump in to rescue those in trouble. One did but it was only to retrieve a kayak, heading downstream without a paddler!

Made a number of circuits of the course before I followed the sandy trail under the highway bridge just beyond the west end of the facility. Shortly after I cleared the underpass I decided to turn around as I wasn't sure what the going would be like ahead and I had more exploring to do, along the banks of the river, closer to the centre of town. Once I was back and crossing the bridge across from the hotel, I had close to 22 km on the clock so I decided I'd ride east along the north side of the Wisla. Had just left the Castle walls behind me when my not so trusty odometre froze and I had to start a new ride. 

Map and Stats for this section of the ride:

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/2732208576#.Wwsa5TVIfZw.email

Quite annoyed as this has happened a number of times before and I'm not sure if it is due to loss of satellite reception or some other system bug. At any rate, I managed to begin recording after a false start or two. By this time it was after 6:00 pm and since i wanted to be back shortly after 7:00 pm I knew I could continue riding for another half an hour. Did just this and managed to avoid any catastrophic encounters with erratic child cyclists and frolicking dogs to cross a bridge to the south side when bike trail seemed to come to an end on the north side of the river. Turned around here not only as I wasn't sure which way to go but also because I'd already gone over the thirty minute mark. Still, the wind was at my back on return leg so I managed to keep up a reasonable speed. Crowds had died down by then so progress was easier and I was back at the hotel by about 7:15 am, pleased that I'd been able to stretch my legs, even if I hadn't ridden as far as I would have liked, circumstances allowing. Cheers. Map and Stats for this section of ride:

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/2732208635#.WwsbClcbxpA.email

Quick shower and change and then I walked to the church as Matt had gone on ahead. Simply marvellous concert. Acoustics were phenomenal and all the musicians, (three violins, a cello, a double bass, piano, classical guitar, and trumpet), wonderfully accomplished. I'm not particularly well-informed about classical music but I was thrilled by Haydn's Trumpet Concerto and and Chopin's Piano Concerto, not to mention Rodrigo's Concierto de Aranjuez, [with Aarturo on the classical guitar!] We were back shortly before 10:00 pm. The evening was still pleasantly warm so we enjoyed the stroll, along and above the river, and the enchanting lights of The Castle. 

Hi everyone, I had sent grandma a picture of some lilies and this was her reply:

Lovely pictures, they aren’t lilies, I call them flags, mine aren’t out yet. Mar is going home tomorrow, after the hospital bed is set up in living room. They, the family are to meet with Cancer Care to see how they are to proceed. She is only seeing immediate family right now, says she doesn’t know if she can keep it together seeing other people.
 

Quinn had her dance recital yesterday Barb said she did good!!! Pam bringing some food from the lake for George to take back. Hamburgers & Mac & Cheese etc., for the kids & to help Barb with meals. James & Sandi called in, they are coming for dinner tonite on way home from Kenora. Grams 

Have texted with Marlo and Carly and Ryan and they are all doing the best they can. Kids still don’t know, my understanding is they are trying to figure out best way if there is one......mom leaves tomorrow to go back. Love you all. Chloë

Hi Chloë! Thanks for the update, devastating though it is. Spent much of today exploring part of Kraków's Old Town. From what I've seen, it is a fabulous city. Even went for a 30 km bike ride along the Wisla this afternoon. Wonderful, wonderful bike path. Glasgow is already asleep. Must away as my eyelids are drooping as well. Love and Cheers, Dad/Poppa/Patrizzio!

Hi Donna florida and Cactus! Greetings from Kraków! Arrived here yesterday, around 6:00 pm. Matt Garrey and I will be roommates for the next two weeks of the bike tour. Cheers, Patrizzio!

Dear Patrick What bike travels you are experiencing!! So amazing. The scenery is so amazing and you will carry these images with you the rest of your life.
Bravo!!

Similarly but definitely not the same we enjoyed a spectacular trip to Banff, Calgary, Edmonton, Camrose and Jasper.
The weather was perfect and we saw a great deal. Loved it all and the mountain scenery was spectacular. Really sad to be back in the coastal mountains. I sincerely hope you are celebrating each day. What a wonderful trip for you. Perhaps our paths will cross in Poland as we will be there in about 10 days. Please take care and enclosed is all our love Jo-Anne and Colin Hello Banff/Jasper People!
 Trust you are both well. Let me know your dates if you will be in Kraków! YOU MUST VISIT! We return on July 10th and I'm planning to stay for a couple of days as I want to visit Auschwitz and more of the city before heading to Aarhus, possibly Warsaw, en route. Fondestos and Cheers, Patrizzio!

Dear Patrick, Thank you for the update and pics. My goodness such a long trip hope everything has gone well for you. It all seems so exciting. We are heading out to sea in the morning for a week, or two or three. So looking forward to the break and rest. Love, Jean & John Hello Sea-faring Folk! Trust you are both well. What a wonderful, wonderful voyage you have ahead of you, never mind me! Cruise safely and stay well. Fondestos and Cheers, Patrizzio!
Hi OF hikers, This Monday we are venturing in the 3 Blind Mice area. We have not been there for quite a while. It'll be more shaded there, so good for another beautiful day! We will start again at 8:00AM to beat the heat of the day. So, meet at HH Penticton at 08:00AM, and IGA Summerland to carpool to Penticton at 07:40AM. Hope to see you there. Cheers Aart, the mountain bard, and Tony, the mountain goat. Hello Josinta/Aarturo and Michaelo! Trust everyone is well. Hello to everyone on tomorrow's/today's hike. [Not sure when is when, given time difference!] Must away as a need a java. Where is Arturo when you really need him? Fondestos and Cheers, Patrizzio!

Pics: Start of yesterday's walk, along Wisla towards the Castle; book market with The Church of St. Peter and St. Paul behind. Where we attended concert that evening. [Later picture shows Haydn's Trumpet Concerto - Andante.] Town Square with one of the very entertaining buskers; Poster for Richness of Mind: Treasures of Himalayan Art; Castle, from opposite side of river and church atop a hill, further along, outside of city proper, taken when on my bike ride; Church next to Castle when walking to concert, as sun was setting; Night scene after concert.

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